THE BEAUTIFUL GEM OF BEAUNE

We awoke to the sound of bells in Beaune this morning, accompanied by the patter of rain on the windows panes.  By the time we got up, we saw that we were in for a patchy day, blue sky building our confidence to venture forth....& then pouring rain to make us scurry to the nearest patisserie!  Our first venture was to walk around half of the medieval town ramparts, before the wrestling with umbrellas became too much.  The sun was kind enough to stay out while we marvelled at the colourful tiled roof of our next destination; Hotel-Dieu.

This was established as a 'Palace for the Poor', a beautiful hospital  created & paid for by the Bill & Melinda Gates equivalent of 1443, Nicholas Rolin & his wife Gigogne de Salins.  There were about 30 beds in a beautifully built hall, with a staff of dedicated nurses tending to their care.  There was a Chapel at one end, & a space in the middle where they would eat their meals.  Each of these private beads had a jug of wine next to it for each patient.

Up above their heads was an exquisite ceiling, designed to amuse, with the various heads, patterns & symbols, but the decoration was also a form of protection.

These grotesque animal heads were supposed to protect the patients from evil & death! (I think they'd give me nightmares!)

The kitchen was protected by St Martha, patron saint of kitchens & the quality of food prepared for the patients here was excellent.  They were very concerned about the effect of different foods on healing & believed that cold food was not good for patients.  Anything cooked in wine was good however!!  So the poor sick people of Beaune were ensured the best of care & food whilst healing here.

The Hotel-Dieu established a remarkable vineyard which  not only provided wine for the sick, but also produced enough to sell & raise funds for the hospital.  The vineyard continues to produce wine to this day & the hospital continued to treat patients on this site up until the 1970's.

This has to be the most elaborate tap of any hospital kitchen in the known universe!!!!

Once again, the arts made this a very special place.  The founders were keen patrons of the arts & several commissions were made for the decoration of the hospital.  This beautiful Mille fleurs tapestry made by Flanders weavers tells the story of Saint Eligious, the same patron saint of blacksmiths that we met on our very first day in France!  Not many tapestries would use a horse with a chopped off leg as a subject though I would have thought!!

Another treasure was this alter piece showing the Final Judgement.  The sick would have been able to see this in the chapel from their beds.  Sadly it had to be removed to safety during the French Revolution.

I have only touched the surface of what this incredible building has been & has given to this community.  It was a very moving story & in terms of a museum...it was exceptionally well presented.  A terrific way to start our time in Burgundy.