DIJON...WITHOUT MUSTARD!

Today we opted to take the train to Dijon.  Not only would the trip be quicker, but we didn't have to worry about following directions from a GPS & finding parking.
As you can tell from the photo...it rained. 
It rained when we left the apartment to walk to the train station. It stopped whilst we were on the train.  It started again when we arrived in Dijon.  Let's just say the day continued in that sort of pattern!!
Within minutes from the station, we were here at Porte Guillaume, which looks kind of roman, but isn't.  Built in the 18th century it was initially built into the city ramparts.  When the ramparts were demolished at the end of the 19th century, it was put here in Place Darcy...& no...Jane Austen fans, it has nothing to do with Pride & Prejudice!

We have got into the habit of visiting the Tourist Information Office as soon as we arrive in a town, to see if they have a trail of sites we can follow.  We were very excited that they had an 'Owl Trail' in Dijon.  Ok, yes...it is designed for families with younger children, but we are kids at heart & these trails are informative & interesting without overdoing the information!!  We enjoyed following these owls through the streets of Dijon today.

One of the significant places we visited was Notre Dame Cathedral.  There are 2 reasons to visit....according to the guide books.  They are; the Black Madonna (yes please) & the lucky owl (I'm keen for that one too!).
Were I to write a guide book, I would add 2 more reasons that this Cathedral needs to be included in any visit to Dijon.

The photo above is one.  Once upon a time, this 13th century cathedral had a beautiful Typanum. This is what's left. It was completely destroyed during the French revolution. I applaud the authorities for leaving it like this & not trying to recreate what was here before.  This is one of the tragedies of war.  I stood here & thought of Syria & Baghdad in particular. Incredible human loss & tragedy, but also incredible loss of exquisite craftsmanship, & symbols of a bygone era. We need to remember the consequences of war, whether civil or global. This lack of decoration was profoundly moving.

This is another reason to visit.  I apologise for the poor quality of this photo.  It is all I have as there were no postcards available & my other photos were even worse than this.  I don't know who the designer or weaver of this exquisite tapestry is, as there was no available information.  What I do know is that it IS exquisite & lit up a dull Cathedral.  It took my breath away. The design, colour & workmanship was absolutely divine.

I really wanted to see the Black Madonna.  The concept intrigues me.  I've only ever seen one before & that was in Rocamadour here in France.
Sadly, our timing was off.  THIS is the BLACK Madonna....or she was until the powers that be decided she needed cleaning (after centuries) & consequently, she is back to her (alleged) natural state.  She BECAME the Black Madonna over time (& LACK of cleaning).  I do wish they had left her as she had evolved.  Apparently, she performed many miracles whilst black...I wonder whether her powers have been washed away as well!!!!

The lucky owl, is a little carved owl on the corner of the Cathedral building.  For centuries this little owl has been considered a lucky charm...for those that rub it with their left hand & make a wish.  Obviously this little treasure is well & truly worn down with time to an incredible smoothness, which just adds further charm to it.

I'm sorry to say that my wish hasn't come true yet!

Most of the buildings in Dijon were a whiteish colour & built from stone.  Some were highly decorated.  Some were not.

There were a few places where the buildings looked like this & were equally charming.

All that walking of the 'Owl Trail' builds up an appetite, so in the Place Emile Zola we sat down in a quirky Epicurie for some refreshment.  This is how the cruditee was served!!

Later in the day we visited the other Cathedral in town, St Benigne.  The treasure here, is the crypt dating from the first century.  This is an atmospheric space, where I could easily sit & contemplate.  Very little decoration remains, but there is a very real sense of sacredness, maybe it is the presence of St Benigne's bones in the entrance!!

Regardless of the rain we still managed to have a good day in Dijon.  It's an attractive town & has some very special features which we enjoyed learning about.